Prepare to be captivated by the unique charm of The Owl, a masterpiece crafted by L'Atelier Bernard that has left collectors in awe. This limited-edition timepiece, with only six pieces ever made, showcases the incredible talent of young watchmakers Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz. Their innovative approach to design and mechanics has created a watch that is nothing short of extraordinary.
The Owl is a true artisanal creation, blending unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Imagine a watch that challenges traditional norms, where the dial is inverted, revealing a vibrant movement with a playful mix of colors and textures. The large, symmetric barrels, resembling the curious eyes of an owl, dominate the watch face, while the slow-beating balance, powered by a rare duplex escapement, adds to its distinctive character.
But here's where it gets controversial... The Owl's movement is a deliberate fusion of highly refined and rustic finishes. The lavishly engine-turned barrels, a personal favorite for barrel decoration, contrast with the coarsely grained mainplate. It's a bold statement, reflecting the youthful energy and perspective of its creators. And this is the part most people miss: the crown, placed at 12 o'clock, gives the watch a unique bullhead-like appearance, further reinterpretating traditional watchmaking norms.
The stainless steel case, with its strong, angular lugs, pays homage to the Cornes de Vache style, yet with a modern twist. The sloping side profile, thanks to a domed sapphire crystal, reveals a unique side view of the oscillator. It's an ambitious debut, leaving us eager to see what L'Atelier Bernard has in store for the future.
Now, let's talk about the duplex escapement. This frictional rest, deadbeat tangential impulse escapement is a true rarity in modern times. Invented in the 18th century, the duplex was once a superior system compared to the cylinder escapement. However, with the advent of more precise detached lever escapements, it fell out of favor. But L'Atelier Bernard has brought it back to life, creating their own version with a rustic twist. The escape wheel, built with tall pins, and the impulse pallet made of the same material as the wheel, add to its unique character.
The duplex in The Owl has an additional safety feature, addressing the risk of over-banking the balance at high amplitudes. The watchmakers have added a counterweight geared to the balance, ensuring it oscillates at suitable amplitudes. The free-sprung balance beats at an unusual 1.5 Hz frequency, creating a slow and steady rhythm. With a comfortable 45-hour power reserve, The Owl is a reliable companion.
The finishing on this watch is a generous blend of haute horlogerie and rustic elements. The parachute shock absorbers, securing the balance and escape wheel pivot jewels, add a sense of utility with their coarse graining. The mainplate and finger bridges are fully grained, creating a harmonious contrast with the soft yellowish-grey German Silver. But it's the gold inlaying and concave bevelling, mastered by Bernard Braboretz, that truly stand out. The large plate at 12 o'clock, framed by a subtle gold inlay, and the brand's rising sun logo on the bridge, are testaments to their exquisite craftsmanship.
The guillochage on the barrel drums, executed on a hand-operated rose engine, is a true masterpiece. The wavy pattern, resembling feathers, seamlessly transitions from one surface to another, adding a touch of avian inspiration. Turning the watch over, we find expertly black-polished click wheels and a dominant center wheel, its exaggerated size accommodating the recalculated going train ratios required by the 1.5 Hz oscillator.
L'Atelier Bernard's The Owl is a limited edition masterpiece, priced at CHF150,000 excluding taxes. All six pieces have been sold, with delivery expected by the end of 2026. It's a bold statement piece, a breath of fresh air in a sea of Geneva stripes and perlage. So, what do you think? Is The Owl a masterpiece of modern watchmaking, or does it miss the mark? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
